Before you decide to breed your
pet rabbits, I ask you to think about a few key things...
What is your purpose in breeding? (It may be for commercial or family
meat purposes, show, pet, fur, or other)
Are you breeding to a standard? All purebred rabbits have a standard
that describes what the ideal animal of that breed looks like. If you
don't know the standard, you can talk to other breeders who can fill you
in on the details or you can join the American Rabbit Breeders
Association and buy a book of Standards of Perfection.
Are you breeding purebred or crossbred rabbits? There are many unwanted
pet rabbits in the world of unknown heritage. If you are breeding for meat,
then heritage does matter. There are breeds developed for maximum meat
production with as little waste as possible. The does are bred to kindle
and raise large litters. The litters grow to marketable size quickly.
Show breeders are always buying new stock for show and breeding. They
are looking for that 'part' they need to improve their own herd. These
people usually prefer to buy a pedigreed, purebred rabbit that
originally came from good stock. It has been said that it costs as much
to keep a purebred as a crossbred. If the pet rabbit is a neutered pet, then
heritage doesn't really matter...you will still love that bunny. If you
are planning to breed, then give this a lot of thought.
What are you going to do with the offspring? If you are planning on
selling them, you will have much better luck if they are purebred. Many
people like to know what they are getting as to the future size, shape,
and coat of the rabbit. Rabbits vary greatly in size and coats, from
giants to dwarfs. Keeping Pedigrees and showing rabbits opens up a huge
new market for your rabbits. If you are breeding for meat, then go ahead
and breed the mix breeds that are best for meat production. You already have plans for the offspring!
Are you prepared for medical emergencies and the possible loss of your
rabbit? Not all births go as expected and if your doe is a pet, her loss
could be devastating.
Are you prepared to NOT make money? By the time you raise those little
ones to a sellable age, they can eat quite a bit of groceries. If you
show, then the cost of keeping a whole herd along with showing and
traveling expenses, usually puts you in the red. You will be breeding
because you love it. The amount of work involved is much more than you
will ever get paid back for in dollars.
Prepare to become a 'bunny slave'. The rabbits need daily care, and the
list of chores never ends. As soon as you finish one job, there are
three more that need doing. By the time you are done all your chores, the first
job needs done again. The nails never stop growing, the bunnies never
stop eating, drinking and pooping, the fur never stops flying. Be
prepared to spend a MINIMUM of an hour a day with your rabbits. Forget
about long holidays unless you have someone reliable that will care for
your bunnies. It is hard to find this reliable person, and you can't use
them too often or you will wear them out. In the winter being a bunny
slave becomes at least three times harder if you have to battle low
temperatures and frozen water. You do this because you love it...not for
money, not for fame and fortune. Those cute little bunny faces will keep you coming back.
Prepare for disappointment, deaths, health problems and breeding
problems. Learn now to be a good sport. If you have a weak stomach, can't touch rabbit
droppings, don't like the smell, or don't like lifting 40 lb sacks of
feed, being a rabbit breeder might not appeal to you. You could probably get by with just a rabbit or two.
So, if you still want to breed, keep reading....
Before you start:
You will need a separate cage for the buck and the doe. They will keep
breeding if they are housed together. You will need another cage for the
offspring, and more cages if you wish to grow them up for meat or show.
This can be quite a financial investment to start with...feeders, trays,
water bottles etc. You will also need to have a nest box for the doe.
Make sure your rabbits are free of diseases. Rabbit VD can cause the doe to lose her litters.
Make sure your rabbits are in condition. Overweight does have a hard time conceiving.
Finally...the easy part.
Bring the doe to the buck's cage. He will try to mount her. Hopefully,
your doe will cooperate and will rise her rear up for him. Within a very
short time will kick his feet, and may grunt and fall off. I usually
allow a buck to mate three times, and then remove the doe. It is
recommended to come back within an hour to six hours for a rebreeding.
Go write this date on the calendar so you don't forget!!! Also, count up
29 days on your calendar and write "Nest box". Finally, count day 31 and
write "Bunnies Due". Don't think you are going to remember. Nothing
worse than seeing a perfectly nice litter born dead on the cage floor.
Don't put your nest box in too early. Often times rabbits will poop and
pee in the box. Keep cleaning it out as needed till the new babies arrive.
Does are induced ovulators, which means they don't have a heat cycle
like dogs do. They do have times when they are more willing to be bred
than others. If your doe doesn't cooperate on the first day, keep trying
each day until she does. Light plays a big part in the doe's
receptivity. Try to simulate by adding more hours of light. Some
does can be very stubborn about rising for the buck. You can try to
assist her by lifting her rear slightly. (make sure you have long
sleeves on in case she tries to bite). Slide your hand under her and
while the buck is trying to breed tap the doe with your finger. If she is running around like
crazy and is grumbling, you might want to remove her and try her later.
She could do damage to the buck.
Always watch. No it isn't being rude or nosy...it is important for
several reasons. You will know if she was actually bred. You will be
there if things go wrong and she attacks the buck, or if the buck starts
to bite her too much.
When the breeding is done, take the doe back to her cage.
Now hopefully, your doe is pregnant. Remember re-breeding should only
take place for 8 hours. After the 8 hours you may cause two sets of
rabbits to get fertilized and none will survive.
Some does, especially if they are overweight or older, will be harder to get bred.
At about 16 days or so, some does will start to stuff their mouths with
hay. This is very cute! They will be showing nesting behavior but it
isn't necessary to put the nest box in yet.
At 29 days, put the nest box in. The nest box varies in size. I use an
18"L x 10"W x 9"H ----- commercial steel box. The high sides help
prevent the kits from getting dragged out to the wire. In warm weather,
say 50° for the low temperature, I line the bottom with white woodchips
about 2-3 inches deep. In colder weather you will be better off with
straw, or the stick part of hay will work. Give them lots in their box.
And give them hay to eat so they don't eat what is in their nest box.
You should be able to feel the kits feet moving around inside the doe if
you sit with her with your hand on her belly. I love feeling the babies!
The doe may start to pull fur when the box is in, but most will wait
till a few hours before kindling before they even start. She will hopefully
make a soft nest ahead of time, but some does don't pull fur until after
the babies come.
On day 30 to 32 your doe should 'kindle' or have her babies. I usually
stay and watch as often as I can.
All pet rabbit breeds may have problems with their first litters. If
I lose the litter, I rebreed the doe in about 5 days. The
second litter usually comes out just fine.
In Cold weather it is best to not disturb a perfect looking nest. Try to
keep a good nest perfect by keeping you paws out. Rabbits are the
professionals at building a good warm nest for their babies.
You may have to assist a stuck kit.
Each kit is cleaned quickly by the doe. She usually eats the placenta,
but you may find one that she missed. It looks like a small chunk of
liver. The kit will try to get a bit of nursing in right away. The
littermates come quickly, so the doe will let it fall into the small
hole she digs in the woodchips. Does don't pick their young up like
cats, so they can't move them around very well. A kit born out of the
nest box will stay on the floor and die unless you pick it up and put it
back. You may need to warm it up if it's cold. Don't throw out a cold
kit. I've brought some cold, dead looking ones back to life by warming
them inside my shirt.
Some kits are born very large. They are called fetal giants. You usually
find these in small litters. They are often dead when born because of
the slow delivery, and they can hold up their littermates from being
born, so they die too.
At the opposite end of the spectrum are the 'peanuts'. These are born
very small, and are the result of a double hit of the dwarf gene. They
usually don't live for more than 3 days. They will shrivel and die, as
they are unable to eat. You won't get any peanuts unless both parents
carry the dwarf gene.
Check the nest box for the number of kits. Dig around and make sure
there are no dead ones hidden in the chips. They will rot and cause
stinky, messy problems.
Some does will retain kits. They will not be able to breed again. Does
will often pop out a dead baby within a day or two. These will sometimes
be quite awful to look at....all long and stretched out.
Some does will cannibalize their kits. Some are over-enthusiastic
cleaners and will eat an ear or tail by accident. Breeding is not for
the weak of stomach!
Raising the litter
Now that you have your litter, you don't have to do much more than check
on them at least once a day. I like to make sure they are fed within 24
hours. They will have nice round balloon bellies if they are fed. The
doe only feeds them once or maybe twice a day, so don't worry if you
don't see her in there with them. She may be feeding at night when you
aren't watching. In Warmer weather check the babies and do a head count each day. You need to remove any
peanuts or kits that have died. I like to check and see how they are
coming along and what color they are.
Their eyes should open in about 10 to12 days. Check eyes for any that
get stuck shut again, and moisten them with clean water until they open.
If you allow eyes to be stuck shut when they should be open, then the
rabbit will be permanently blind.
At about 3 weeks they will start hopping out of the nest box. Remove the
box and get it sterilized for the next use.
The kits will start their transition to pellets during the next week.
Trim their butts of excess fluff to prevent poops from sticking. CHECK
their fluffy rears EVERY DAY during this time. The poops can block up so
fast! Either pick them off with your fingers, or if it is bad, soak them
off and wash it all off. They'll get past this stage soon. Best to have
them start out on rabbit pellets. Hay is not needed while they are at this age.
At about 7 weeks you can start to wean. Some breeders remove one or
two kits at a time, until they are all gone. This will allow the doe to
dry up at a better rate. At 7-8 weeks, they can go to their new
home. I give mine 5 days after all the kits are removed, and then they are ready to bread again.
Some breeders will speed up this schedule, but I don't find it necessary with my does.
You don't want to give them too long of a break, or they can become
difficult to breed again.
The content of this page is used with permission,
by author Donna Williams
Snowberry Holland Lops and American Sables